The Mexican town of Chamula is home to a beautiful centuries-old Iglesia de San Juan in the middle of town square. The building catches the eye with whitewashed walls and a colourful entrance. The most unusual thing about it is that believers practice peculiar rituals that are based on magic rather than official Catholic practices.
Organized tours are available to San Juan Chamula Church from San Cristobal de las Casas. Bear in mind that locals don't like to be photographed and don't allow pictures inside the church. The best time to visit the church is St. John the Baptist Day on June 24th when thousands of worshippers gather in Iglesia de San Juan Chamula.
Worshipers attach candles directly to the tiles and drink Coca-Cola and “pox”—the regional distillate—to burp as they believe it wards off evil spirits. Other rituals include absorbing maladies into a chicken egg or waving a live hen overhead. Sometimes small animals are killed in the church.
These rituals are a blend of traditional Mayan beliefs with the Catholic ones introduced by missionaries over 500 years ago. The church tried to stop these practices as inappropriate, but Chamulans appointed their own religious leaders and continued to follow their beliefs.
Practical info
When can tourists visit the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula?
The Iglesia de San Juan Chamula can be visited all year round. The best time is during St. John the Baptist Day on June 24th for those who want to witness thousands of worshippers gather in the church. Visitors can avoid crowds by going on a weekday when there are less locals visiting the church. Show more
Where can I arrange an organized trip from San Cristobal de las Casas to the Iglesia de San Juan?
Visitors can conveniently book an organized tour from several travel agencies located in San Cristobal de las Casas to the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula, including the visit to the church. Alternatively, taking a colectivo, which is a shared taxi or van, is a more affordable and authentic option costing around 25 pesos. Show more
What are some examples of the rituals carried out at the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula?
At the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula, worshippers perform a mix of traditional Mayan and Catholic beliefs. These rituals include drinking Coca-Cola and pox, absorbing maladies into a chicken egg, waving a live hen overhead, attaching candles to tiles, and sacrificing small animals. Aside from conventional Catholic masses, these practices are highly distinctive and unique to the Chamulan people. Show more
What is the significance of sacrificing small animals inside the church during these rituals?
Sacrificing small animals at the church is one of the ancient Chamulan traditions that is still practiced today. The ritual is believed to exorcise evil spirits from people or to cure ailments. While this is a part of their traditional Mayan beliefs, the practice has received criticism from the Catholic church and various animal rights organizations. Show more
How did the participation of the Chamulan people influence the Catholic practices in the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula?
Catholic practices in the Iglesia de San Juan Chamula have been significantly influenced by the Chamulan people's participation. When Spanish missionaries arrived in Chiapas, they introduced Catholicism to the indigenous population, but the Chamulans adapted it to their existing Mayan beliefs. The combination of these cultures made the church a hub for religious and cultural practices unique to the Chamulan people, who continue to thrive today. Show more
